Bridge Splitting on JF30-12

[curt]

Russell, I'm curious why your repair person took that approach. The bridge is attached with animal glue and will pop off with a little heat.

Many cats, many ways to skin them.

 

[Russell Letson]

It was a long time ago, but we either couldn't get a replacement bridge that matched the '65 original, or he just wanted the challenge of repairing rather than replacing. I trust him enough to let him try out ideas on my instruments. And this way most of the bridge remains original, even if modified. And I like the Baggs pickups enough that three of my four amplifiable flat-tops have them, and that slot modification made installation easy.

 

[Dr Izza Plumber]

Headed to rendezvous with the Luthier this afternoon, at His shop.
He's viewed the JF30-12 bridge issue via email, and He pretty much agreed verbatum with Curt. (TY, Curt!)

This local guy prefers to use fiber optic epoxy for this type of repair, and He said the black f/o epoxy will never be noticed.
He's repaired dozens of Guild acoustic gits over the years, (many bridges) and I've seen quite a few items that He's repaired, so I'm content with His work.
BTW: the charges will be about 50-60 bucks total; 1/2 hour's labor, plus 20 bucks for the tube of black goo.

FWIW: He also said to start using walnut oil (or similar) on the bridges and fingerboards of all My gits, and that will help to prevent cracking/splitting.
I haven't done this in a lot of years, because My cousin (who built Kittinger W/C Furniture) cautioned Me about doing that years ago, when He saw Me oiling the f/b on My Crestwood 12 string, (which has zero cracks, btw) nearly 40 years later.

Guess who will be oiling their gits from now on ?!

EDIT: I will post an image after the git is repaired, and I've fitted a new compensated tusk saddle and strings.

 

[curt]

Good news, you're welcome and looks like you've found a brilliant guitar repair guy!

 

[taabru45]

He's viewed the JF30-12 bridge issue via email, and He pretty much agreed verbatum with Curt. (TY, Curt!)
Thank You for the continuing input, I knew that I'd be well advised here.

I like this forum....making friends, learning a lot and building bridges.....how cool is that :?: Steffan

 

[killdeer43]

I like this forum....making friends, learning a lot and building bridges.....how cool is that :?: Steffan

On the other hand, let's plan to stay away from burning bridges, :wink:

Joe

 

[adorshki]

FWIW: He also said to start using walnut oil (or similar) on the bridges and fingerboards of all My gits, and that will help to prevent cracking/splitting.

That caught my eye because that's what our member Kostask swore by as being the best thing available that was the most likely to contain NO PETROLEUM DISTILLATES.

 

[Dr Izza Plumber]

Good news, you're welcome and looks like you've found a brilliant guitar repair guy!

It's all better now, and the split is 99% invisible.

Tomorrow, hopefully, I will generously oil the bridge, though I haven't found any walnut oil yet.
I'm thinking go to the health food store.

If I can't find any walnut oil locally, I was told to use sunflower seed oil, or pure olive oil, until I find the good stuff.

 

[adorshki]

Good news, you're welcome and looks like you've found a brilliant guitar repair guy!

Tomorrow, hopefully, I will generously oil the bridge, though I haven't found any walnut oil yet.
I'm thinking go to the health food store.

In fact that's exactly what I was gonna do, since that'll be guaranteed pure, and if you can't use it all on your guitars, at least you can cook or make sald dressinf with what's left over. Seroiusly.
I think the other oils might be a bit too thick to penetrate and evaporate well, that's why walnut is supposed to be the best.

 

[Dr Izza Plumber]

I've been told not to use food grade walnut oil, as it will go rancid, and stink up the guitar.

There are a few furniture grade walnut oils for sale, and that stuff is boiled so it will not spoil.
It's used for treating wood bowls, wood cutting boards, yadda....

 

[12stringer]

I've been told not to use food grade walnut oil, as it will go rancid, and stink up the guitar.

There are a few furniture grade walnut oils for sale, and that stuff is boiled so it will not spoil.
It's used for treating wood bowls, wood cutting boards, yadda....

That makes a lot of sense.
I have always used light mineral oil and have never had any problems with cracking or gunk or rancidity. Fwiw...I found out about using mineral oil from my bagpiping days as the bagpipers always used it to keep their drone pipes in good condition and keep them from cracking....the drones were usually solid ebony.

 

[West R Lee]

Hey Dave.....two things. Those cracks are caused by mashing the pins in too tightly, and secondly, Scratch's repairman Ross can do a fix that you will NOT be able to see. It will look like a new bridge, and it's not expensive. Ross will take ebony or rosewood sawdust, mix it with glue and fill the cracks.....you'll never know they're there. He's made the same repair for me.

West

 

[curt]

A little ebony dust is a given but a crack like that one which is so typical of ebony you shouldn't see it.

AND if you do see some glue it would be from squeeze out. Simple cure is to scrape it with a #9 razor blade across the top followed up with some 3000P paper.

 

[Dr Izza Plumber]

Hey Dave.....two things. Those cracks are caused by mashing the pins in too tightly, and secondly, Scratch's repairman Ross can do a fix that you will NOT be able to see. It will look like a new bridge, and it's not expensive. Ross will take ebony or rosewood sawdust, mix it with glue and fill the cracks.....you'll never know they're there. He's made the same repair for me.

West

Hey West, how are You? Thank You for the helpful suggestions!

The Bridge Pins weren't tight, just snug. I originally sanded/fitted them, and RJ checked the pins as well, and said the fit was very good.
RJ Malloy is a master luthier, and He designs and builds violins, and cellos from choice lumber, as well as guitar repairs/set-ups.
He repaired the JF30's bridge 2 days ago, and You can't see the split anymore.
For the repair, He used black fiber optic epoxy, which cost 20 bucks for the packet, but it is highly resistant to oils and pressure.

Actually, that guitar came from the Cranberry Pennsylvania area, from a home heated with fire wood.
My Luthier RJ, said the wood was extremely dry and barren of any oil content, likely due to the dry wood fire heat.
I've been rubbing oil into the bridge and fingerboard for 2 days, and the bridge (plus fingerboard) now looks refreshed and beautiful.

BTW: RJ asked Me what I'd sell the JF30-12 for, because He's seldom seen a 'burst in that model, and in that nice of condition, ie, no dings, dents, scratches, or wear, etc.
I'll be fitting a new tusk compensated saddle in a few days, and stringing her again, then I'll take a picture to post.

 

[Dr Izza Plumber]

Here's the git all back together, complete with a tusk compensated saddle.

Sorry for the slight blur; my cam won't make magic today for some reason...prolly me.

The intonation is about perfect with the tusk comp saddle, and the tone is noticeably sweeter.
I can now run barre chords up the neck, and they sound like they should.
Finger board feels great too, with the refreshed surface, plus it looks terrific.

Here's an image:

 

[chazmo]

Very nice, doc