Bracing for a Guild D top

Telenator

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I'm re-topping my old Guild D15M because the mahogany top split in two places and honestly, I was never thrilled with sound of the guitar in the first place.

I have a quartersawn premium grade sitka spruce top that I'm using but I'd like to get some input on bracing.

My Guild is very robustly braced and I was wondering anyone has an alternate bracing scheme to keep the top strong but a little looser than it is now.
 

jazzmang

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That particular guitar was did not use scalloped braces from the factory, which would be my recommendation of things to do now. Also look at the type of wood being used as the bracing, as it will affect the strength of the braces, which in turn affects the sound.

Theres actually a thread we started a while ago that had some pictures of bracing from various Guilds, if you're interested.
 

Telenator

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I'd love to see it.

I bought a quartersawn bracing kit from Luthiers Mercantile. I was planning on tapering the braces and eventually tuning the top before I install it.
 

GardMan

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Don't know a whole lot about the Guild bracing patterns... other than scalloped vs not. However, I noticed something else on my D-55 the other day that I plan to investigate further. I was messing around A/B/C-ing my D-55, D-50, and D-46 the other night... all three have good saddle height... but noticed there seemed to be less break angle on the D-55, tho' the saddle is about the same. Got out my caliper, and discovered that the bridge pin holes are set back farther, away from the saddle in D-55, different than all my other Guilds. Since the scales are the same, the saddles must be in the same relative position... but I wonder if the bridge plate inside is shifted rearward... and whether this might be a sign of a rear-shifted X-bracing in the D-55. I plan (but haven't yet) investigated farther.

One thing I would do is consider your bridge plate. The original bridgeplate of your D-25 was probably rosewood (at least that's what is i most of my Guild dreads). There are some folks that think a maple bridge plate, being less dense and thus less mass, gives a more "open" top than a rosewood. My D-35 and D-55 appear to have original maple plates... my D-44 has a maple plate, but I'm pretty sure it is not original. Another point... many mfctrs cut their bridgeplates with the grain parallel to the pin holes (across the guitar top; all my Guild except the D-44 are that way). This is not structurally very sound...as the weakest dimension/direction is in the direction of the most stress. Plus, the pin holes weaken it further. My D-44s bridgeplate has the grain running diagonally across the plate... and should resist stress and cracking at the pin holes better (Frank Ford has a discussion of this on Frets.com).

You might also want to look through this thread on the UMGF... I have been thinking of trying this with my Guilds the next time I change strings, and we (LTG) might compose a library of Guild bracing patterns (maybe Hans has one already?)...
 

Telenator

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Well this one is going to be unique indeed. I have a Martin ebony bridge going on it and a maple bridge plate. I'm not sure if I'll go ebony or rosewood on the fretboard. And I haven't discarded the idea of making it into a 25 1/2" scale guitar since I prefer the longer scale. We'll see.

Thanks for the info!
 
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