1512 truss rod repair/bolt on neck

[guildnotth]

That did come as a surprise to me Pretty sure they have since gone to a single, double action truss rod for all models

I just checked the Guild site and the description that they have for the Westerly1512 indicates a double action truss rod. The GAD model (2014 discontinued) indicates single action. Seems pretty clear. Thanks to all

 

[adorshki]

I just checked the Guild site and the description that they have for the Westerly1512 indicates a double action truss rod. The GAD model (2014 discontinued) indicates single action. Seems pretty clear. Thanks to all

Don't confuse "Double action" with "Dual":
"Double action" means the truss exerts tension in both directions, both tightening and loosening.

Dual rods were single action, intended to be independently adjustable to balance the unequal string tensions on each side of the fretboard.
The single truss neck on 12's was introduced in Tacoma, '07, and uses 2 parallel graphite flanking bars for stability.

 

[guildnotth]

Thanks, but I completely understand the difference. The Guild data on the two models is very clear. Single action vs. dual action ( not dual rods). The GAD 1512 may well have had the twin graphite rods as well but what I have (recent 1512) has dual action. Also confirmed by others here To replace the stripped nut on the end of a broken dual rod. I will remove the fretboard and replace with a dual action from Stewmac. No need right now but project for the future

 

[Default]

So, let me think.
If it looks like a replacement is not likely, and repair is too costly, maybe a tiny bit of epoxy on the end of an electric screwdriver socket might work?

Just enough epoxy to attach the socket extension to the stripped out nut, you don't want to render the truss rod inoperable.

 

[SFIV1967]

Gripper Truss Rod Wrenches - StewMac

Allen truss rod nut too worn to adjust? These wrenches save the day!

www.stewmac.com

Ralf

 

[SFIV1967]

maybe a tiny bit of epoxy on the end of an electric screwdriver socket might work?

That's a clever idea to attach such an extention! They are also available in short size:



Ralf

 

[Default]

It's definitely a "save this guitar from the dustbin" idea. It's not something I would suggest if the guitar was more repairable. Somebody put that instrument together, and I hate to see that effort wasted.

 

[Default]

That's a clever idea to attach such an extention! They are also available in short size:



Ralf

I have some of those kicking around in the toolbox. I haven't had a use for them, this might be their chance to shine.

 

[guildnotth]

It's definitely a "save this guitar from the dustbin" idea. It's not something I would suggest if the guitar was more repairable. Somebody put that instrument together, and I hate to see that effort wasted.

Thanks again. I had thought of epoying a piece of 4mm hex rod (cut off from a 4 mm Allen key) into the stripped hex socket. There is a tiny bit of grip The Gripper from Sewmac is an easier first try I had considered along with machining my own taperd hex key. Alterntives are trying a Torx (old trick to loosen stripped Allen/hex sockets) but that is probably only OK for reducing truss rod tension.

Of course the easiest is to do nothing until adjustment is needed. Like I said eartlier, the anal retentive engineer in me may be surfacing. I'm one of those guys that makes sure all the screws in a switch cover in the wall are aligned and every bolt in my car is torqued to spec.

Removing a fretboard, especially one without binding, is not a monstrous task, just needs patience and the goodwill of the Mrs. to use her iron. LOL Having built the Bozo Podunavac clone shown at the start of this string, I may find this less daunting than most. And as I only have $300 into a great sounding Guild which would have sold for more without this issue, it is likely worth it.

I really appreicate all of the comments, suggestions and goodwill here. Best for 2024 to all of you!!